Thursday, December 3, 2009

From NoHo to NoCo: one visitor's introduction to Eastern North Carolina

From NoHo to NoCo


New Bern

Marinas, Mums, a Mansion....
In October, I went to New Bern as a visitor for the last time -- and, for the first time, my pal Trailer ventured to "The Swamp," as she so eloquently describes our Southern estate.  I spent the first day getting new tires for the truck. But if you have to hang out at an automotive place, it might as well be Family Tire, where there's free soda, popcorn, wifi, and a living room set-up with flat screen TV. See why people like New Bern?  M.J. arrived late that night, and the next day we set off for Mum Fest on a bright, hot morning, taking the little ferry across the river. Unfortunately, the recent fish kill made the scenic marina pretty stinky.

Gotta love the carnival atmosphere of Mum Fest right in the center of downtown. We strolled the grounds of Tryon Palace and had lunch at the Pollock Street Deli, a perennial favorite.

Tryon Palace

...Mystery...
We indulged our Gothic interest in cemeteries with a tour of atmospheric Cedar Grove, with its "Weeping Wall," ghostly Spanish moss, finely crafted monuments, and tombs of local worthies.  A native New Bernian on the tour brightly pointed out that she would be laid to rest there someday.  Later in the month, the grounds would be more lively, so to speak, staged with lighting and spooky characters  as one of the settings for the city's annual Ghost Walk.

Cedar Grove Cemetery

...and History...
Foiled in an attempt to see the Estuarium in Historic (Little) Washington, it being closed on Sunday (most things are closed, at least on Sunday morning, in Eastern North Carolina -- even Chick-Fil-A!), we opted for breakfast, a stroll around the town which felt like a combination of 1899 and 1959, and a visit to Historic Bath (all the towns in Eastern North Carolina are officially Historic). Our tour included--you guessed it--history, plus tranquil waterscapes, odd shops (Christmas ornaments made from tobacco twine, anyone?), and of course, them old cotton fields.



We ended our truck tour in Historic Oriental, as The Sun Sank Slowly in The West.



Every visitor to our Brices Creek home is encouraged to have the Total Swamp Experience by venturing out onto the sweet-tea-colored water in a kayak.  Intrepid Trailer was no exception, and despite the cloud and chill of October, we paddled to the quarry, where some developer envisions an enclave of luxury villas with yachts moored in the deep "Stillwater."  But for now, it's still a haven for herons and bass boats.



We hope this is just the first of many visits from our photophile friend, and that her example will serve to encourage others likewise to consider undertaking their own New Bern adventure when we are permanently settled in our spacious New England-style Cape on the cusp of the Croatan National Forest.  (Remodeling by Stroud Custom Homes!)



And remember, if cemeteries and estuaries aren't your thing, there's always the superb wine list at Captain Ratty's!

1 comment:

  1. Swamp blogging is off to an excellent start. I'm honored to have been featured in your post.

    ReplyDelete